After Micheal  Schumacher accident, (get well soon) there has been much online re helmets and skiing. Here is my 2ps worth copied from something I posted on Facebook. 

Surely to wear or nor wear a helmet is a personal thing, a choice you make after due consideration. To equate it with wearing a seat belt, motorcycle helmet or any other legal requirement is not applicable here and I hope that it is never made so, tricky to enforce if nothing else. I don't wear one, yet. Never say never but I have yet to feel the need. I absolutely understand the arguments and after due consideration choose not to. However if I was teaching on a busy novice area where I could not keep a good lookout for incoming idiots then it might be a different story. I am fortunate to spend much of my teaching time off piste and as such avoid most of the collision hungry yahoos. I know that I could fall, hit my head and perhaps regret the lack of protection but I have been doing this a long long time, am in control ( mostly!) and if I get to an area where the risk is increased I ski appropriately. When I am off piste I carry all the gear, and while in the event of an avalanche I can for located thanks to the transceiver and the ABS bag, I can also find someone who is buried. The point is that equating helmet wearing with transceiver etc use is not valid. A helmet is for your protection, off piste kit is more than that. So, use or don't use a helmet, that's your choice, just respect mine and have fun.

Puffintastic on Lunga

Sometimes you just get it right. After a month or so of pretty dodgy weather, finally summer arrived and I had the good fortune, no lets call it planning, to be on Mull.

For those of you less familiar with the West Coast of Scotland, Mull is one of the largest of the islands and the easiest way to get there is from the Port of Oban. 

I really like going to Oban. The harbour is always busy with yachts, fishing boats and the Calmac ferries heading out to bewildering selection of destinations. One of these days I won't have a plan and just get on the first ferry that's leaving the dock, but that's for another trip. This time Yvonne and I jumped in 'Ed' the recently acquired campervan and headed west. Another of the reasons, I like Oban is the great seafood shack beside the ferry terminal and we made sure of a good lunch of prawn tails and langoustine win hot garlic butter before catching the 4 pm boat to Craignure on Mull.

There is a pretty good selection of places to camp either under canvas or on a van on Mull and we made for Loch Na Keal and parked on the shore having got some water from the burn nearby.

Great views, nice wine and no midgies make for a pretty good evening.

Mull is famed for wildlife viewing and there are quite a number of companies offering tours of the island, but we flew solo and kept out eyes open.

Ulva Ferry

 On Monday morning we decided we would go to the island of Ulva, a 2 minute boat trip across the Sound of Ulva, and have a look round.

 As we drove round to the top of Loch na Keal we met a couple with binoculars fixed on the water. A quick enquiry revealed they were otter watching so we pulled in and got out our 'bins'. And there he was, a big dog otter working his way slowly up the coast and fishing, very successfully as he went. We watched for a while till he moved further away and went on our way feeling privileged.
It got even better though. Mull is renowned as one of the finest places to watch eagles. Both British eagles are resident here and and while we didn't see any 'Goldies' on our way to Ulva ferry we saw a gathering of people with a selection of telescopes, binoculars and HUGE camera lenses pointed up the hill. Up in a tree a shortish distance from the road was White tailed Eagle. We got a pretty good view and once again went on our way feeling even more privileged and lucky.
Once acros the wee ferry we took a walk and ended up back at the Boathouse, (you can see it in the back ground of the picture above) for lunch.

Lunch at the Boathouse, Ulva

Back on the ferry after very good soup and local langoustines and a run down to Fionnphort, and the campsite at Fidden farm.

We took the obligatory wander on the beach and looked over to the island of Erraid, before watching an episode of the BBC Hebrides (excellent) which I had downloaded onto the iPad, technology eh!

Of course what was happening out of the window was as good if not better.

Sunset over Iona

Tuesday morning and we are off to Staffa. Last year, I arrived on a cruise ship and was taken ashore in a zodiac, this time we were on the "Iolaire"and a smooth run got us out to Staffa in about an hour.

There was a chance of Puffins at the north end of the island and we were told that the National Trust for Scotland warden was on the island, so we wandered off to see the birds and ran into here on the way. She was very helpful and chatty and pointed us to a spot a little further on and sure enough there were a few puffins fling around, on the sea and occasionally coming ashore.

Back to the south end having scratched the "puffin itch' and to listen to the sea swell booming into the grandeur of Fingals Cave.

Fingals cave, Isle of Staffa

We took advantage of the boat calling at Iona and went for a walk along to the Abbey and had a picnic on the beach, before getting on the Calmac ferry for the short crossing back to Mull.

Neither of us had been on Erraid so by following the road further round, past the campsite and keeping going you come to the last house with a field which is used as the carpark and continued on foot downhill to the beach and the channel which separates Mull from Erraid.

Sheep shape (I'll get my coat!)

Those of you who have read RLS Kidnapped wlil know that it's only an island at high tide.

The walk to Erraid at low tide.

The island is used by the Findhorn Community for courses and retreats and has a very calm feel about it. The buildings on Erraid were built to serve the lighthouse builders in the mid 19th century who were constructing Dubh Artach and Skerryvore lights.

Not a new sign I suspect.

We walked up to the signal station that looks to the W and SW and got fantastic views over Iona.

Looking up the Sound of Iona and Dun I

We had another sunset spectacular that evening. 

The following day we went urban, well Tobermory and topped up supplies. I picked up a fishing license for the Mishnish Lochs and while I wasn't very hopeful, due to bright sunshine, mid afternoon and it was also pretty windy. However I managed to get a few trout and better than that, I got a great sighting of a Sea Eagle flying quite low over the loch and being bothered by ravens. Sadly no camera with me but another fantastic moment.

We spent the night at Calgary bay where there is a free campsite with toilets nearby. Be warned though, no water available so top up before you get there.

Thursday was a good day, not that there was much wrong with the others! See the clip below!

 

The day was spent on the "Island Lady"with "Turus Mara" on a trip from Ulva Ferry to Staffa and Lunga (Treshnish Islands). We had another look at Fingals cave before rejoining the boat and the 40 minute trip to Lunga.

There is not a very easy landing spot on Lunga so the boat picks up a pontoon, ties it alongside the boat and runs up to the boulder beach, all very clever.

There is a path through the boulders and a marked trail up the hill and when you arrive at the top you are confronted by lots and lots of PUFFINS!!

Just fantastic, they are used to people and are pretty relaxed and if you move slowly, lie down when you get within 2 or 3 meters, they will carry on as normal. you get great views, will take far to many pictures and undoubtably come home with a huge smile on your face.

The next day we had to go home and even as we were heading for the ferry there were things to see. The big dog otter reappeared in Loch na Keal and near Craignure we saw someone scanning the water of the Sound of Mull with a massive telescope so we pulled in and watched another otter. While we were chatting there was movement in the water at the other end of the little bay and there was another one!

So go to Mull. take binoculars and keep your eyes open and don't complain about the weather.

Out West - A trip to Ardnamurchan

ARDNAMURCHAN The Bell Rock, Heisker, Dhu Artach, Skerryvore and Muckle Flugga, to those in know, there names conjure up thoughts of adventures on the edge. Just getting to these places is no easy task and many Scottish natives will have no idea that they are around the shores of their country. These locations share a couple of features. Number one, they are hard to get to. The first four are well off shore and Muckle Flugga is an island where the North Sea and the Atlantic meet. You can imagine what the weather is like there, at the north end of Shetland and with no other land between it and the North Pole. The second feature they share is that they are all home to some of the finest structures in the country, and sitting on these rocks in the middle of the seas, for that is what they are, are lighthouses. They're tantalising places.not just hard to get to but hard to see. They sit on the horizon as we look out to sea and get a glimpse of a distant pencil sticking up or at night the wink of light that, if we know the signal, allows us to identify the light and for sailors, even in this time of GPS and navigational software, provide a reassurance that there is something solid out there keeping ships safe. It's hard to get an impression of these remarkable buildings. Most of us just don't get there, certainly they are not on the the tourist trail. However if you go west, and go as far as you can, 22 mile west of Lands End to be precise, you end up at Ardnamurchan. The great point of the sea ( as the English translation goes) points west just south of the Small Isles of Muck, Eigg, Rum and Canna on Scotland's west coast. Here sits another of Scotland's great lights but this time you can drive there. The road is long, 25 miles of single track from Salen, which goes up and down like a fiddlers elbow, and it can feel like you are never getting there, but persevere, it's worth it. After 19 miles, at the village of Kilchoan, there is a shop, hotel, ferry to Tobermory on Mull and a couple of campsites. Six miles further, and at the westmost set of traffic lights in Britain, you're there. For somewhere that's thats at the far end of nowhere it's very civilised. Not just the lighthouse and it's attendant exhibition, but a fine cafe and gift/book shop. Either before or after you explore the buildings have a coffee and a bit of millionaires shortbread, I recommend them both, but before long you you will be drawn to the lighthouse. Built in the 1840s to a design by Alan Stevenson it's stands 33m high and the top is 55m above sea level. It flashes twice every 20s and can be seen at 22 miles distance. There are regular tours and you meet the guide at the top of the tower. As you enter the tower there is painting on the wall referencing the Northern Lighthouse Board who monitor all the lights round Scotland's coast. In common with all the other main lights, Ardnamurchan is controlled from the offices on George Street in Edinburgh. The climb to the top gives you the opportunity to examine the tower. The sheer build quality of the construction is astonishing. It must have been a wonder of planning to get the granite from Mull, dress the stone and dovetail it together, and all this at the western extremity of Britain. Now, think about doing the same thing on the more remote lights. The Bell Rock on the East Coast, Skerryvore, Dhu Artach and Heisker on the West, required the construction teams to live in temporary accommodations on these remote reefs while they lights were built, and all the materials had to be constructed on land before being transported to the site, many miles off shore, and subject to the worst of the Scottsh climate. The Stevenson family, who for five generations were engineers and designers for the Northern Lighthouse board, built most of the main lights and the most famous member of the clan, Robert Louis, although he didn't follow the engineering route, travelled with his father, uncles etc to the sites and used this experience in subsequent novels. Read "Kidnapped" and you will realise that RLS know the West Coast well and the are around the South end of Mull in particular. The island of Erraid was the base station during the construction of Dhu Artach and features strongly the novel. So, visit Ardnamurchan, go to the lighthouse and marvel, walk on the great beaches and watch the sea and sky for whales and eagles. There is so much to see, I haven't even mentioned the volcano!

Edinburgh Sunset

An Edinburgh Sunset

Taken from my flat last night. I forgot that I had the camera running and only when I looked at the completed film did I realise the nice effect of the darkness creeping over from the left. Must clean the window too!

A week in Glenelg

Glenelg April 2012 Bryan Hogg Member of the Scottish Tourist Guides Association Is there a difference between research and fun? A tourist guide in Scotland visits many of the great sites that this small country has to offer. Fantastic castles, superb museums, great cites etc, but for me it's the less well known corners that hold the greatest appeal. I have been wandering round Scotland for years, now as a guide but initially to walk the hills, rock climb, kayak, fish for trout in the hill lochs and sometimes just to go and have a look at interesting places. The tourist trail hits the "must see" locations and for visitors with limited time it's the way to do it, but if you have space in your schedule, take some of the side roads and you will find places that have a more relaxed vibe and less of the trappings of the normal tourist hotspots. One such corner of the Highlands is Glenelg. Accessible only by a road which has it's beginnings in the 1700's as a military road or by the last turntable ferry in the UK which is the best way to get to and from the island of Skye in my opinion, it is not easy to get to for the faint hearted or by those travelling by coach. This means that the pub, shop, and cafes do not need to cater for large numbers and as such people have time to chat, answer questions and advise on the best places to go and what to see. And there is lots to see and do here. Being Scotland the weather is always going to play it's part in any activities but to quote one of Scotland's favourite sons, Billy Connoly, "there is no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothes", so bring a pair of boots and a waterproof jacket and get out there! I am staying with a friend who has rented a cottage for a few weeks and several of us are taking advantage of her good nature and have come to visit. The weather has been remarkably good and listening to the forecast for other parts of the UK it seems we are much better off than most. We have been walking, fishing both for trout and in the sea, visiting archeological sites and looking for and sometimes watching wildlife. The deer in the picture was totally unconcerned about our presence and looked rather put out the we had disturbed him! Looking south from here we get a fine view of the Islands of Eigg and Rum . (have fiddled around with the colours). Rum is the island where a number of years ago the White Tailed Sea Eagle was reintroduced to Scotland. They are doing well and are seen all over this area.....but not this week, we live in hope! The other animal on the “tick list” are otters. They are pretty common around here but as yet we have been unlucky. The other morning we got up early and went to Sandaig, a few miles along the coast. It is well known as the home of the writer Gavin Maxwell whose best known book “Ring of Bright Water” was centred on Sandaig in the 1960s. Maxwell died in 1969 and the house burnt down. There is no sign of the house now, the stones have been cleared and all that remains is a plaque to the otter and to the author. It’s a fantastic place and even though we didn’t see any otters, just being there for a few hours with the place to ourselves made the early start completely worthwhile. Wildlife watching takes up a lot of time here but if the beasties aren’t putting in an appearance there are things to see that don't move much and haven’t done so for 2000 years. Dun Telve and Dun Trodden are two of the best preserved iron age brochs on the Scottish mainland. The structures are unique to Scotland and there are more the 300 recorded sites throughout the country. Many are little more that a pile of stones, but a few really give the impression of what these impressive buildings were like. There are numerous walks all along the coast here and even in the village you can take a short stroll and visit the remains of Bernera Barracks. Constructed during the Jacobite rebellions of the late 1600 to mid 1700s this was one of several bases scattered around the Highlands for government troops who were there to keep the locals from rising against King George in support for “Old Pretender” and laterly his son Prince Charles Edward Stuart, better known as Bonnie Prince Charlie. The building is now a ruin and looks pretty unsafe but it is substantial. I wonder if it was a popular posting? The weather has been mixed this week though, as mentioned earlier, it's been better here than the rest of the UK. This morning though it's been a bit colder with snow visible on top of the hills over on Sleat on Skye. So, it's probably not the best conditions to try and catch trout in the Glenelg river, but nothing ventured and all that! Short walk from the rented cottage gets me to the bridge over the river and when I was out for a walk yesterday I spotted a couple of likely looking pools that might hold a few fish. Well, they might, but there was no evidence of it on today's result. Conspicuous by their absence might be the best way to describe the fish. I did get a couple of little ones (safely returned) the other day in a hill loch but it certainly isn't a day to head up into the hills. STOP PRESS : Otter update, 1 spotted near the ferry, phew, we can add that that tick to the must see list. So is my visit here research or fun? I think is both and that's the best part. I would love to bring visitors here and the contrast to the number of visitors at nearby Eilean Donan castle is huge. That is part of the attraction, just a few miles away is a different world. This is not the Scotland that is featured on the shortbread tins and postcards but a more authentic experience where you will meet local people who enjoy living and working here. In short, Glenelg is a great place, it will never be a major tourist destination thank goodness, but come for for a look, stay in the hotel, have a coffee in one of the cafes, take the ferry to Skye (Easter to October) and and help keep the community going. It's a tough place to make a living and the summer season is short so why not come in the winter too? The scenery is still here, the wildlife and the walks don't go anywhere and you will have it pretty much to yourself. Remember, no such thing as bad weather!!

Val d'Isere Heli

Val d'Isere Heli
Click on the link above for some audio blogging! Whatever next!

Great snow in Set Foy.

Blimey, a sunny day at last! Its seems to have been snowing for days.

This is the view from the first chairlift yesterday.












This morning brought blue skies and sunshine and about 3 inches of light snow. I don't think we should get used to it as the forecast for later in the week is saying lots of snow and strong winds for Thursday possibly up to 80cms. Here we go again!

A cornice forming on the roof opposite my apartment.











After working for a couple of weeks in Set Foy I am off to Courchevel and Val d'Isere for a week each and am looking forward to seeing Inspired to Ski clients old and new.