Puffintastic on Lunga

Sometimes you just get it right. After a month or so of pretty dodgy weather, finally summer arrived and I had the good fortune, no lets call it planning, to be on Mull.

For those of you less familiar with the West Coast of Scotland, Mull is one of the largest of the islands and the easiest way to get there is from the Port of Oban. 

I really like going to Oban. The harbour is always busy with yachts, fishing boats and the Calmac ferries heading out to bewildering selection of destinations. One of these days I won't have a plan and just get on the first ferry that's leaving the dock, but that's for another trip. This time Yvonne and I jumped in 'Ed' the recently acquired campervan and headed west. Another of the reasons, I like Oban is the great seafood shack beside the ferry terminal and we made sure of a good lunch of prawn tails and langoustine win hot garlic butter before catching the 4 pm boat to Craignure on Mull.

There is a pretty good selection of places to camp either under canvas or on a van on Mull and we made for Loch Na Keal and parked on the shore having got some water from the burn nearby.

Great views, nice wine and no midgies make for a pretty good evening.

Mull is famed for wildlife viewing and there are quite a number of companies offering tours of the island, but we flew solo and kept out eyes open.

Ulva Ferry

 On Monday morning we decided we would go to the island of Ulva, a 2 minute boat trip across the Sound of Ulva, and have a look round.

 As we drove round to the top of Loch na Keal we met a couple with binoculars fixed on the water. A quick enquiry revealed they were otter watching so we pulled in and got out our 'bins'. And there he was, a big dog otter working his way slowly up the coast and fishing, very successfully as he went. We watched for a while till he moved further away and went on our way feeling privileged.
It got even better though. Mull is renowned as one of the finest places to watch eagles. Both British eagles are resident here and and while we didn't see any 'Goldies' on our way to Ulva ferry we saw a gathering of people with a selection of telescopes, binoculars and HUGE camera lenses pointed up the hill. Up in a tree a shortish distance from the road was White tailed Eagle. We got a pretty good view and once again went on our way feeling even more privileged and lucky.
Once acros the wee ferry we took a walk and ended up back at the Boathouse, (you can see it in the back ground of the picture above) for lunch.

Lunch at the Boathouse, Ulva

Back on the ferry after very good soup and local langoustines and a run down to Fionnphort, and the campsite at Fidden farm.

We took the obligatory wander on the beach and looked over to the island of Erraid, before watching an episode of the BBC Hebrides (excellent) which I had downloaded onto the iPad, technology eh!

Of course what was happening out of the window was as good if not better.

Sunset over Iona

Tuesday morning and we are off to Staffa. Last year, I arrived on a cruise ship and was taken ashore in a zodiac, this time we were on the "Iolaire"and a smooth run got us out to Staffa in about an hour.

There was a chance of Puffins at the north end of the island and we were told that the National Trust for Scotland warden was on the island, so we wandered off to see the birds and ran into here on the way. She was very helpful and chatty and pointed us to a spot a little further on and sure enough there were a few puffins fling around, on the sea and occasionally coming ashore.

Back to the south end having scratched the "puffin itch' and to listen to the sea swell booming into the grandeur of Fingals Cave.

Fingals cave, Isle of Staffa

We took advantage of the boat calling at Iona and went for a walk along to the Abbey and had a picnic on the beach, before getting on the Calmac ferry for the short crossing back to Mull.

Neither of us had been on Erraid so by following the road further round, past the campsite and keeping going you come to the last house with a field which is used as the carpark and continued on foot downhill to the beach and the channel which separates Mull from Erraid.

Sheep shape (I'll get my coat!)

Those of you who have read RLS Kidnapped wlil know that it's only an island at high tide.

The walk to Erraid at low tide.

The island is used by the Findhorn Community for courses and retreats and has a very calm feel about it. The buildings on Erraid were built to serve the lighthouse builders in the mid 19th century who were constructing Dubh Artach and Skerryvore lights.

Not a new sign I suspect.

We walked up to the signal station that looks to the W and SW and got fantastic views over Iona.

Looking up the Sound of Iona and Dun I

We had another sunset spectacular that evening. 

The following day we went urban, well Tobermory and topped up supplies. I picked up a fishing license for the Mishnish Lochs and while I wasn't very hopeful, due to bright sunshine, mid afternoon and it was also pretty windy. However I managed to get a few trout and better than that, I got a great sighting of a Sea Eagle flying quite low over the loch and being bothered by ravens. Sadly no camera with me but another fantastic moment.

We spent the night at Calgary bay where there is a free campsite with toilets nearby. Be warned though, no water available so top up before you get there.

Thursday was a good day, not that there was much wrong with the others! See the clip below!

 

The day was spent on the "Island Lady"with "Turus Mara" on a trip from Ulva Ferry to Staffa and Lunga (Treshnish Islands). We had another look at Fingals cave before rejoining the boat and the 40 minute trip to Lunga.

There is not a very easy landing spot on Lunga so the boat picks up a pontoon, ties it alongside the boat and runs up to the boulder beach, all very clever.

There is a path through the boulders and a marked trail up the hill and when you arrive at the top you are confronted by lots and lots of PUFFINS!!

Just fantastic, they are used to people and are pretty relaxed and if you move slowly, lie down when you get within 2 or 3 meters, they will carry on as normal. you get great views, will take far to many pictures and undoubtably come home with a huge smile on your face.

The next day we had to go home and even as we were heading for the ferry there were things to see. The big dog otter reappeared in Loch na Keal and near Craignure we saw someone scanning the water of the Sound of Mull with a massive telescope so we pulled in and watched another otter. While we were chatting there was movement in the water at the other end of the little bay and there was another one!

So go to Mull. take binoculars and keep your eyes open and don't complain about the weather.